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the best wine and champagne
Alsace
Alsace is a beautiful part of France, squeezed in between the heavily forested
Vosges mountains and the German border on the river Rhine. If you've never
seen a Hansel and Gretel fairytale village in the flesh, head for Alsace
where time seems to have stood still. The distinctive whites of Alsace are
rich in aroma and full of ripe flavour. Riesling, Muscat, Gewurztraminer
and Pinot Gris are generally considered the finest, but good wines are also
produced from Sylvaner and Pinot Blanc grapes. The region's only red
grape is Pinot Noir, which can also produce light, fragrant wines.
Beaujolais
Beaujolais is the all-time party red. You can't take it seriously - and you shouldn't. The French have a word - gouleyant - which means the wine just flows straight down. That's Beaujolais - bright, breezy, gluggable, devil-may-care red. Beaujolais Nouveau is the most famous type of Beaujolais wine, released in November each year. During the rest of the year this year bright fruity Beaujolais Villages is the best bet - always drink as young as possible. There are also ten single villages which are their own name and make rather richer reds, Fleurie, Morgon and Brouilly are the most famous of these.
Bordeaux
Bordeaux in south west France is the world's most famous wine region.
That doesn't mean all the wines are good: they're not. There are thousands
upon thousands of properties there, great and small, and while some are
brilliant, some should consider taking up a different occupation. But
one of the joys of Bordeaux is the enormous number of different properties,
well known and obscure each making different tasting wines. You could
spend years down in Bordeaux and never taste them all. Now there's an
idea. Drive down for a week in the summer - nose in and out of all the
little villages, visit the chateaux, taste, buy and head back with a
car crammed full of goodies and a whole host of memories for when the
nights draw in. Reds: Bordeaux
is most famous for reds. We used to call them claret, and the area around
the Gironde estuary where the grapes grow used to
be English from 1154 to 1453. No wonder they call Bordeaux 'the Englishman's
wine', although the Scots and Irishwere pretty partial to it too.
The main grapes they use are Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot - which we're
more familiar with in wines from places like Chile and Australia - but
they originated here in Bordeaux. The main areas are Medoc, Graves and
St Emilion, but many of the best small properties sport the appellation
'Bordeaux Superieur'. When you taste them, expect something pretty
dry, maybe earthy, but strangely appetising. Whites: People don't talk
much of Bordeaux whites, but in fact the Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon
grapes (sounds familiar, from New Zealand and Australia)
make excellent light, tangy dry whites. But the most famous Bordeaux
white is the intensely sweet Sauternes.
Burgundy
Burgundy starts with Chablis a couple of hours drive south of Paris,
and extends right down through Beaujolais to the gates of Lyon. Both red
and white Burgundies can be fabulous drinks, but the really good wines
are made in tiny quantities and are expensive. Because Burgundy isn't warm,
it's difficult to ripen the grapes and only the best sites regularly manage
it, particularly in reds. Reds: There
are a few pale reds made near Chablis in the north, but all the best reds
are made south of Dijon, and around
Beaune. The temperamental Pinot Noir is the grape, and the wines rarely
have much colour, but they can have a lovely perfumed sweet fruit. The
most famous villages are Nuits Saint Georges, Vosne-Romanée, Beaune
and Volnay. There are also quite good reds around Mercurey, further south,
but the other major red area is Beaujolais in the south which makes brighter,
breezy reds out of Gamay grapes. Whites: Whites
start with Chablis in the north. It's cold there and the grapes struggle
to ripen, but the Chardonnay
makes fine, steely mineral whites
which aren't too expensive, either. Did I say Chardonnay? Yes. This New
World darling is actually the white grape of Burgundy. Further south around
Beaune - especially in Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet - fabulous nutty
dry whites are made. They're not quite so good further south in the Cote
Chalonnais, and they're definitely less good - softer, fatter, less appetising
in the broad warm meadows of the Maconnais. Champagne:
If you're in the mood for fizz - well, Crémant de Bourgogne is a
really nice glass of bubbles.
Cahors
One of the great country wines of South-West France made from Malbec, Merlot, Tannat and Jurancon Noir grapes. Dark and highly tannic, Cahors required a lengthy bottle age to soften.
Champagne
Champagne is the nearest wine region to the channel ports - it's only
a couple of hours drive from Calais to Reims, the main champagne town.
Fancy lunch in Champagne? Leave the ferry by 10.30am and you'll do it
easily. This is pretty far north to make wine and it's only possible
because Champagne has various river valleys and hillsides that are protected
from the wind and rain. The most famous Champagnes are made by the big,
widely advertised companies like Moet et Chandon, Lanson or Mumm. But
there are lots of small companies who also make good fizz. And, increasingly,
growers who would have sold their grapes to a big company to blend into
these brands are now making the wine for themselves. If you're driving
round the area you'll see endless signs by the side of the road advertising
these small producers. Pop in. Taste the wines. If you like them - buy
them. If you don't - don't buy. But there's no doubt you can save significant
sums by buying your bubbly in Champagne - and you have the added pleasure
of knowing the men and women who make it.
Côtes du
Rhone
The Rhone wine region starts south of Lyon and continues right down almost
to the Mediterranean. In the north the river cuts through the edge of
the Massif Central and creates precipitously steep slopes. The intrepid
Romans planted grapes here, at places like Cote Rotie and Hermitage,
and the vineyards are still there, clinging to the rock. The Syrah makes
marvellous smoky reds and the floral Viognier and honey suckle-scented
Marsanne and Roussanne make lovely whites.
The most famous wine of the South is Chateauneuf du Pape - a rich, heady
spicy red (although there is a little white). But there are loads of
other delicious, brawny, southern reds and smooth-textured whites. (There
are some intoxicating rosés too). Some come under the names of
single villages like Gigondas or Vacqueuyras, but most are called Côtes
de Rhône, or usually better, Côtes du Rhône Villages.
Côtes
du Jura
A beautiful wild wooded mountain area on France's eastern border with Switzerland, but the wines can be a bit weird, especially whites from the Savagnin which when called Vin Jaune - yellow wine - taste and look like sherry. But there is some nice Chardonnay, some pleasant Pinot Noir red and some pretty fair fizz.
Jurancon
Right down in the Pyrenees just inland from Biarritz is this historic but small wine region. It produces decent dry whites but glorious pineappley sweet whites that always manage to retain a refreshing streak of lemon acidity.
Languedoc Rousillon
This is the vast area of Southern France that's also called the Midi.
It runs from Nîmes by the Rhone Valley right the way round to the
Spanish border. It's the most prolific wine region in the world - it
makes 10% of the world's wines, one third of France's wines, its vineyards
are five times bigger than those of Australia, 50 times bigger than those
of New Zealand, and yet we hardly know it at all. That's because all
those anonymous litres of rough plonk we used to hoover back - they were
all from the Midi. But the area was once high quality - the Romans began
planting grapes at Narbonne - and if you get away from the flat sea shore
into the hills there are wonderful, challenging high quality vineyards
all over the place. Red wines are best, so look for names like Côteaux
de Languedoc, Pic St Loup, Minervois and Corbières. Whites can
be good, but it is a bit hot down there. Limoux is the best white area
and there are lovely sweet wines like Muscat de Rivesaltes. If you've
noticed lots of wines called by their grape name, Chardonnay, Cabernet
etc, with the title Vin de Pays d'Oc - these come from anywhere in the
Languedoc. Above all, it's a wild untamed part of France and well worth
a visit.
Savoie
You're more likely to have been in Savoie during the winter than the summer because this is the heart of the French Alps, and skiing is big business here. But where the snow clears these high Alpine meadows do shelter some lovely vineyards, mostly producing delightful fresh whites and pleasant bubblies. And if the vintage has been hot there's a rare but lovely spicy red called Mondeuse.
Provence
Most Provençal wine seems to be drunk in the region, usually on the beach
as far as I'm concerned. It could make better wines, but with a captive market,
most producers simply provide loads of rose and some fair red and whites for
the bars and restaurants of France's playground. However, Bandol is a seriously
good wine area near Toulon.
Val
de Loire
The Loire is the longest river in France, arching like a great bow from
way down south, up to Orléans and then gradually flowing towards its wide
estuary and the sea at Nantes. There are lots of different wine styles, some
obscure, some very well known. Far upstream there are attractive country
reds made from the Gamay, but it doesn't take long before we get to Sancerre
and Pouilly Blanc Fumé - two of France's most famous white wines.
(By the way, Pouilly Fuissé is quite different - that's another very
good white from Southern Burgundy). Here the Sauvignon Blanc grape provides
bright tangy whites with lovely green gooseberry fruit and a smoky perfume.
Touraine makes good Sauvignon but is better known for Vouvray - still or
sparkling, sweet or dry -and the red Chinon or Bourgeuil. Anjou has the
Chenin Blanc as its main grape, often made dry, but at its best in Côteaux
du Layon where it's intensely sweet. And over in the west near Nantes is
the perfect partner for a plate of 'fruit de mers' - Muscadet.
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